February 17, 2010

Bring New Life to Your Sterling Silver Charms

Oxidizing your sterling silver charms, chains, and beads helps you make stand out designs. Oxidized silver has a dark, almost black finish and contrasts beautifully to many gemstones and to Vermeil style gold plate components. Many women love the look of mixed metals, like blackened silver chain combined with gold and silver chains. It’s sophistication with an edge!

Oxidizing your silver components is easy, a lot of fun, and (fair warning) can be addictive. Here are a few facts and pointers to get you started. When exposed to air all sterling silver will oxidize, achieving a beautiful aged patina. Oxidation is a natural process that occurs on the surface of silver caused by exposure to oxygen and pollutants in the air, like sulfur.

If you’d like to speed up the oxidation of your silver, here are a few suggestions to get you going. I always recommend using a dry concentrate of Liver of Sulfur because it’s easier to work with than the liquid form. An 8oz container from Rio Grande is inexpensive and will last you a very long time! Read and follow the instructions carefully. Though not toxic, make sure to work in a well ventilated area – Liver of Sulfur is very stinky, like rotten eggs! I like to get as much done at one time as possible, so I’ll start filling up a bag with items I want to oxidize. Once the bag gets full enough, I’ll oxidize a big batch. Try experimenting with the heat and concentration of the solution to achieve slightly different finishes. Also, try experimenting with the final surface by selectively polishing off certain areas, or rough up the texture with a scotch bright pad.

Check out our Black Satin Collection for styles we carry with a lustrous oxidized finish.

The mysterious look achieved through oxidizing silver

The mysterious look achieved through oxidizing silver

Black Satin Collection

Black Satin Collection

January 18, 2010

Enamel Jewelry

Enamel Jewelry offers endless color opportunities. Resin enamel has become a popular way to embellish sterling silver. A few months ago, I visited Rio Grande, where Patti Sowell walked me through the resin enamel process. It requires a good deal of practice and patience but the results are worth it. An overview is currently posted in our Classroom, along with a detailed PDF that you can use to order supplies and print out to keep beside you while you work. Have fun!

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October 14, 2009

Try a Hammer Technique to customize your Jewelry Supplies

Have you been looking for a way to customize your sterling silver jewelry supplies? Try hammer finishing pendants and charms. It’s an easy way to add more depth to your designs, and make them unique. You’ll need a steel block to hammer on (I bought mine from Rio Grande) and a small planishing or ball peen hammer (whichever you prefer). Adding a hammered texture to our sterling silver charms makes them look rustic and gives them a hand made appeal. I like how the rippled texture makes them less shiny and a bit “imperfect” looking.

Shiny vs. Hammer Finished Charms

Shiny vs. Hammer Finished Charms

Hammering Tips:
1) A hammer doesn’t have to be heavy to get the job done! You can actually really hurt yourself by using a hammer that is too heavy. Be careful! Using an extra heavy hammer contributes to carpels tunnel syndrome over time. Your hammer should be fairly light and comfortable to use.

2) Experiment with different types of hammers. My favorites are a planishing hammer, with two super smooth faces, one flat and one slightly convex. Both faces have smooth edges that can be used to create deeper and sharper impressions than the convex face. I also recommend trying a ball peen hammer. This hammer has one face that is round (like a ball), and will make softer smaller dips on the surface of your metal.

Take some time to experiment with this technique. With practice you’ll figure out how much force is too much and how much is just right. You’ll also begin to notice how other details of charms may change as you hammer them. For instance, notice on the karma word tag how the lines of the word “karma” became finer. You may also want to start oxidizing pieces after you hammer them for an even more rugged look! Hammer finishing is a really fun and easy way to produce unique jewelry.

Hammered Word Tag

Hammered Word Tag

Hammered and Oxidized Silver Charm

Hammered and Oxidized Silver Charm

October 8, 2009

Letter Stamps on Gold Plate Charms: Does it Work?

We’ve been experimenting and playing with metal alphabet stamps on our silver and gold plate charms and pendants as a way to customize our jewelry designs. For detailed instructions on stamping and a list of tools, check out our classroom. Yesterday I wrote about stamping on our different sterling silver charms and pendants. Our popular gold plate vermeil style charms offer a warm, rich canvas for stamping. We also tried using markers to add contrast to the stamped letters. This is what we found:

Stamps on gold plate, without ink added.

Stamps on gold plate, without ink added.

1. One of our main questions on stamping gold plate was whether the sterling silver would show through on the stamped letters. Fortunately, we found that the letters maintained their gold tone. However, our examples have not been tested over time – it is possible that over time and with wear, the silver may peek out at the edges of the letters. Does anyone have experience with time-worn stamped gold plate charms? How is the durability of the gold on the stamped letters?

With black dry erase marker added to the stamped letters.

With black dry erase marker added to the stamped letters.

2. In an effort to make the letters pop, we tried adding black dry erase marker to them. On both our cast gold plate word and letter charms and our hand-stamped samples, the black dry erase was quite successful in adding contrast, making the letter or word pop against the gold plate. We did notice that the deeper the hand-stamped letters, the better they retained the dry erase ink. After adding the ink, we waited about a minute for it to dry before wiping off the excess. The dry erase maker also worked well on our sterling silver stamped charms.

The top cast charm has dry erase, the bottom is without.

The top charm has dry erase, the bottom is without.

3. The stamped charms with dry erase marker have not stood the test of time. If the charms are exposed to water, it’s possible the dry erase could fade. We also tried using a black sharpie marker, which would be more permanent, but found that when the excess was wiped away, the permanent ink darkened the overall color of the gold plate.

We’ve had such fun playing with metal letter stamps and are inspired by all the design possibilities stamping presents. Who else has caught the stamping bug? Do you have tips and recommendations for successful stamping?

October 7, 2009

Customize your Jewelry with Alphabet Stamps

We recently started playing with letter stamps, and let me tell you, it is addictive!  We carry a number of blank silver pendants and charms.  In the last few months, we’ve received quite a few questions about stamping: how is it done, which pieces do we recommend, does it work on our gold plate?  We decided to experiment and find out! We set up a workstation in our office with the basic tools (steel plate, heavy brass hammer, set of steel alphabet stamps) and went to work. See our classroom for more detailed step by step instructions and tool information on stamping. After playing for about an hour, this is what we discovered:

Thicker silver takes letter stamps very nicely.

Thicker silver takes letter stamps very nicely.

1. The cleanest results were achieved when stamping on thicker silver, such as our plain round disks, rectangle disks, etc.  The letters stamped fairly deeply into the silver without bending the overall pendants.  The back of the pendants have minor scuff marks opposite the letters, but both sides of the pendant are still flat.  See our “groovy” example below.

2. The new thinner spangles work with the stamping, but result in a more rough, handmade look.  The thinner silver spangles disks become warped after being stamped with the alphabet letters.  The letters also show through on the back of the disk.  Additionally, the silver became depressed around the letters, making them a bit more indistinct.  We found the letters difficult to read until we added black dry erase marker to them.  See our “love me tender” example.  If you like the DYI look, the spangles are very charming and offer a larger surface area for a longer message or poem.

(To keep reading and see more photos, click here)

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September 18, 2009

Modify Jewelry Findings to Create Custom Designs

Jewelry findings can be easily modified to create a unique, custom look for your jewelry. When we are sketching new components, we often try to incorporate a variety of design options into the piece. For example, a top jump ring can be clipped off a pendant (use flush cut wire cutters and file off any remaining sharp edges on the silver) and then wire wrapped to sections of a chain or links. A beautiful clasp can be used as a centerpiece in the front of a necklace; dangles can be attached to the bottom edge of a pendant to add movement to the design; or a pendant can be used as a link instead of just a pendant.

Jewelry finding A475 used as is.

Jewelry finding A475 used as is.

Jewelry Finding A475 used as a link.

Jewelry Finding A475 used as a link.

A475 with jumpring clipped off and wire wrapped to links.

A475 with jumpring clipped off and wire wrapped to links.

A475 with jumpring clipped off and flipped upside down.

A475 with jumpring clipped off and flipped upside down.

As jewelry designers ourselves, we like to use components in fresh, unexpected ways. It’s a simple technique to set yourself apart from other designers. With a little modification, one piece can be transformed into a number of different components.

We’ve also had success with “blackening” our silver for a unique finish.  Additionally, we’ve used matte paper to add a satin  finish to shiny silver and gold plate (the matte paper “scratches” the surface slightly to dull the shiny finish).  How have you modified parts to make them your own?

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